By Bea | Culture, Fashion
Fashion is an industry built on glamour, but behind the scenes, it operates on exploitation, exclusion, and deep-rooted discrimination. From underpaid garment workers to the near-invisible presence of Black and Brown executives, the system favors a select few—while millions struggle to break in or survive within it.
A Firsthand Look at Fashion’s Inequality
During my time as an atelier management associate and production coordinator at a premier fashion house, I experienced the best and worst of the industry. At first, I was the eager assistant fetching coffee and oatmeal, but within weeks, I was managing entire fabric development process, budget planning, and celebrity fittings—on an assistant’s salary.
The deeper I climbed, the clearer it became: there was an unspoken ceiling for people like me. My supervisor, a woman who once might have seen herself in me, quickly became my biggest obstacle. She disliked that we both had long, curly, natural hair—so much so that one day, she cut hers off, seemingly to avoid comparisons. When I styled my hair in a silk Christian Lacroix scarf, she adjusted it herself, telling me, “You should wear it so it covers your ears, and you will look less like a cleaning lady.”
Soon, it was evident that my growing influence within the company made her uncomfortable. She began showing up to work again—not to mentor me, but to ensure I was excluded from key meetings and executive discussions. My work remained essential, but my presence was increasingly diminished.
The Bigger Picture: Systemic Issues in Fashion
This isn’t just my story—it’s the industry’s norm. A 2022 McKinsey report found that less than 4% of fashion executives at top luxury brands are Black or Latinx. Meanwhile, factory workers—the backbone of fashion—earn as little as $3 per day in certain countries, working in hazardous conditions with little to no labor rights. Fashion’s glamorous façade is built on labor that it refuses to acknowledge.
- Underrepresentation in Leadership – Fashion brands continue to lack diverse executives, creative directors, and board members, leading to culturally tone-deaf campaigns and missed opportunities for innovation.
- Pay Inequality & Exploitation – Fashion assistants, atelier workers, and production teams are drastically underpaid despite their critical contributions.
- Racism & Microaggressions in the Workplace – From being passed over for promotions to enduring outright discrimination, BIPOC professionals in fashion often face career-limiting biases.
- The Treatment of Garment Workers Globally – Whether in Bangladesh, China, or even luxury ateliers in the states, garment workers are consistently underpaid and overworked while the brands they serve reap billion-dollar profits.
How We Can Change the Industry
The future of fashion must be built on inclusion, fair wages, and respect for craftsmanship—not exploitation. If we want a better industry, we must:
- Support Ethical & Diverse Brands – Invest in companies that prioritize sustainable labor practices and diverse leadership.
- Demand Accountability – Call out major brands when they fail to meet ethical and diversity standards.
- Uplift Skilled Workers – Recognize and compensate the artisans, seamstresses, and assistants who bring collections to life.
- Encourage Internal Change – Push for pay equity, mentorship, and opportunities for underrepresented professionals in fashion leadership.
Fashion doesn’t need to be built on gatekeeping and exploitation. It’s time for a system that values the people who make it run.
What are your thoughts? Have you witnessed or experienced inequality in the fashion industry? Drop your comments below or join the conversation on Instagram @BusyBeingFab.